I was just a mile into my bike ride when I felt the urge to stop at 9th Street Coffee and Donuts. The barista talked me into this gorgeous-looking sugar doughnut with a raspberry and vanilla topping. And there was even more raspberry oozing from inside.

It was a delectable way to start an urban bike ride on a sunny morning.

The recent completion of construction on 900 South in Salt Lake City was hallmarked by the opening of the new 9 Line Trail, a protected bike path on the south side of the road that provides access to a series of some of Salt Lake’s most vibrant neighborhoods. The only problem with the trail is that you just want to stop everywhere!

The huge Jordan Park at 900 West is a good base area. Meander your way up to 900 South and pick up the trail. About a mile in, just after passing under I-15, you’ll wander into Central Ninth. This is my favorite section. You have everything from Templin Family Brewing to the Vertical Diner (vegan) to Golden Gyros. My fave — the focaccia sandwiches at Central 9th Marketplace. But today I opted for the donut.

Fearing I would just eat my way there and never make it to 9th and 9th, I climbed back onto the saddle. Pedaling through the Maven District just past State Street, I rode past boutiques, cafes and the Utah Knife Shop.

But I just had to pull over at Tinker’s Cat Cafe. It’s the first cat cafe in Salt Lake City, you know. Yes, this is really a thing. Bring your own cat or they have cats for you to snuggle and maybe bring home. Maybe this is a road trip for Tiger Lily and me?

Ahead I spied Pig & A Jelly Jar, a popular brunch spot. Being an Italian food connoisseur, I couldn’t help but notice Veneto and Matteo nearly across the street from each other, battling it out to see who could serve Salt Lake City’s most exotic plate of pasta. This is not Olive Garden.

As the temperatures started to rise by mid-morning, I pedaled faster to get into the shade of the huge elm trees along the northern edge of Liberty Park.

Cruising along 900 South, one may wonder about the street signs that proclaim it Harvey Milk Boulevard. Given the heavy influence of the LGBTQ community in the area, in 2016 Salt Lake City opted to rename the street in honor of the San Francisco mayor and gay rights activist who was assassinated in 1978.

As you pedal along, it soon becomes apparent that these are true local neighborhoods. There are simply no national chains. From galleries to cafes to restaurants to utilitarian shops, this is a truly authentic community.

Crossing busy Seventh East, I headed for 9th and 9th. I found solace in the fact that I knew I did not have to climb that towering hill ahead. It was a bit early to stop at the Liberty Tap House, so I forged on. Passing the historic Tower Theater, I could see my quest in site.

Love it or hate it, “Out of the Blue,” commonly known as The Whale, has become a wild discussion topic among Salt Lakers. When the artwork was installed in April 2022, it started snowing. The next winter was the biggest on record, so skiers absolutely loved it.

I do, too. When visiting the part of Salt Lake, I always try to spin a lap around the roundabout. 

After an orange juice with air conditioning at Publik, I climbed back on the saddle for the return ride. 

Alas, it was time to head back. Remember, it always looks different going the other way.

DETAILS

Getting There: Make your base in Jordan Park, west of I-15 with parking and picnic tables.

The Trail: The new 9 Line Trail is a paved trail on the south side of 900 South, separated by a curb most of the way. Share it with pedestrians. It’s pretty dead flat for the four miles from Jordan Park to the Whale. From Jordan Park to The Whale and back, it will be eight very flat miles and a ton of fun.

Dining: Dozens of cafes and restaurants.

When to Go?: It’s hot now, go early.