Some of my favorites growing up in Wisconsin were just cruising the rolling farmlands in rural Dane County, absorbing a slice of backroads Americana. Winding through the tiny burgs of Wanship, Hoytsville, and Coalville remains one of our favorite close-to-home drives. It hasn’t changed much in our 36 years here.

We began our journey slipping off I-80 in Wanship, gateway to Rockport Reservoir and High West Distillery. Take it slowly as you drive under I-80 to admire the amazing artwork capturing community history.

Turning right at the 1940s vintage garage that once was the home of Escapod, we passed the Tiny Ass Ranch sign and the eclectic antique collection of the Pendleton House that is the dream of any Hollywood set designer, with everything from old firetrucks to prairie schooners.

In its heyday, Wanship was home to four general stores, a hotel, two blacksmiths, two saloons and a brewery. It’s been a decade since the legendary Spring Chicken Inn across the street served its last platter of fried chicken. The inn originally opened in 1937, and fans would drive from all over northern Utah to the venerable roadhouse.

Wanship was settled in the late 1850s. By 1861, the Wanship Station was a stop on the overland stage line to Salt Lake City. It eventually became a hub with two rail lines, shuttling silver from Park City, timber from Kamas, and coal from Coalville.

The town is named after Ute leader Chief Wanship, who graciously helped struggling settlers learn how to live off the land.

Next, make the hard left turn onto West Hoytsville Road to take the high route up the valley under the flanks of Lewis Peak. The road climbs through twists and turns, winding its way through farmland, offering the occasional glimpse of the Weber River down below.

A few miles in, you’ll start to see small homes built with large red stones or bricks. Kids, see how many you can count. The red stone is characteristic of the red rock landscape in the hills above Hoytsville and neighboring Coalville.

After passing Creamery Lane, the road goes between two old stone homes. A short distance farther, watch for two horses made entirely of weathered branches on the hillside to the left. On the right, an old stone home stands majestically in the field, the Weber River and hillsides of Coalville in the distance.

You’ll eventually cross I-80, connecting with South Hoytsville Road. Take a left to head into Coalville for an ice cream cone before backtracking down South Hoytsville Road to Wanship.

The farming region of Hoytsville, originally known as East Plymouth, was settled along the fertile banks of the Weber in 1859. Legend has it that Brigham Young asked Vermont native Samuel P. Hoyt, then living in the state capital of Fillmore, to move to the region and establish a grist mill. 

Hoyt constructed the mill, along with a stately Vermont-style stone mansion. Take a short detour on Creamery Lane to get a glimpse of the old stone structures.

With Utah’s Black Hawk War heating up in the mid-1860s, Hoyt and local citizens banded together to build a fort nearby, though with generally friendly relationships with the natives, the war had little impact on the region.

Driving past Spring Canyon and Creamery Lane, we’re in the heart of what has been our local dairy country with farms dotting the landscape.

As we headed through the heart of Hoytsville toward Wanship, we stopped to absorb the new mural on the side of the Summit County public works building. In a time of evolution, the citizens of Hoytsville sought to capture their community’s history in a colorful diorama by Argentinean muralist Sasha Primo, dedicated in 2022. 

Primo traveled to Hoytsville, living in homes and visiting schools. In his mural, he captured everything from indigenous inhabitants to early pioneers to the sheep, dairy, beef and mink ranchers who formed the history of the valley.

But it left me wondering what we’ll find in another 20 years. Muralist Primo left some room to tell that story.

DETAILS

Getting There: Take I-80 to Wanship. Everything on the route is fully paved and perfect for the family SUV. Use maps or GPS to make sure you take West Hoytsville Road out of Wanship, eventually returning on South Hoytsville Road to Wanship on the east side of I-80.

When to Go: This is an excellent route at any time, but it’s especially poignant during the golden hour before sunset.

Dining: Coalville is a great turnaround spot. Stop at the Polar King for an ice cream cone or burger (open Sunday), or try the new Mister Clucker (closed Sunday).