A high-summer dinner party that won’t make you sweat
Even in the mountains there are days when the temperature soars, the sun blazes, and just the sight of an oven can make you perspire. So consider Ysaac Ramirez. The chef honed his skills in restaurants throughout the steamy southern U.S., and now presides over 4 Saints, an award-winning rooftop lair at the Kimpton Rowan hotel in the desert oasis of Palm Springs, California.
When the thermometer hits 110°F and civilians retreat to mist-cooled pools and air-conditioned lounges, Chef Ramirez and his crew head into the kitchen.
Ramirez has learned that by adjusting his menu, sourcing local ingredients, and staying hydrated, treating your guests to a delicious evening while keeping your cool is a breeze. Here’s how.
Ditch anything hearty
Common sense? Maybe. But you’d be surprised how many people serve their tried-and-true lasagna in the middle of July. Chef Ramirez says he won’t think twice about taking one of 4 Saints’ best winter dishes, stuffed quail with cornbread, off the menu in advance of the heat. “When I cook for winter it’s stick-to-your ribs fare, which is the last thing you want when it’s 110° outside. We’ll change that up for something refreshing that won’t weigh you down.”
But give the people what they want
Even in the thick of summer, Chef Ramirez says his guests won’t stop ordering his cornbread. Which is fine — he maintains his variety is delicate enough to serve on a scorcher of a day. “It’s very light and fluffy, not as dense as other cornbread. We use heirloom cornmeal flown in from South Carolina, and continually whip it with eggs and buttermilk to incorporate more air.” Just do your baking in the morning, before things heat up.
Adjust your serving sizes
Thanks, perhaps, to its Rat Pack legacy, Palm Springs is a steak town 365 days a year. But rather than the gigantic tomahawk you’ll see spilling over 4 Saints plates in winter, Chef Ramirez likes to serve a 6 oz. petit filet in warmer months, accompanied by plenty of greens.
Keep it simple
When you’re lucky enough to get your hands on great produce — in summer, Chef Ramirez has his trucked in from the Santa Monica farmers’ market — treat it with simplicity and respect. “Here’s how I like to eat in summer: Get a great tomato, add some cucumber, finish it with red wine vinegar and a little salt. With the best produce you’ll do a little cooking here and there, but not much. Focus on the types of ingredients you can get, and let them direct your menu.”
Lighten up on the drinks
Whether you call it your pool wine, patio wine, or picnic wine, Chef Ramirez recommends switching from heavier varieties to a sprightlier sip in summer. “I really like piquette, a low-alcohol wine made from the second pressing. It’s super-tart, a little sweet, and has a bit of fizz.” Also called farmer’s wine or poor man’s wine, piquette doesn’t weigh you down and makes sense during a long afternoon of grilling and chilling. Cocktail-wise, Ramirez considers any drink that incorporates prosecco to have a summery sensibility.
Bring on the berries
Childhood summer memories can inspire some of the best dessert creations. “I love anything strawberry,” says Ramirez. “You remember those little Strawberry Shortcake bars from the Good Humor truck? I used to eat those like crazy as a kid, and now I ask my pastry chefs to make a play on that taste. It takes me right back.”
Don’t be afraid to cheat
Cooking a multicourse meal with all the sides can be daunting any time of year, but Ramirez says there’s no need, particularly when it’s hot out. “Nowadays grocers are employing a lot of high-end executive chefs, and their deli sections are full of very good handmade foods. You can cook up a protein at home, then serve it with a pasta salad or a grain salad you pick up at your local store.”
Grill your garden
To get Chef Ramirez really excited about summer cooking, ask him about salad for dinner. “I love grilled vegetable salads — squash, carrots, fennel, maybe a combo of raw and grilled. Toss it all with a little acid and Parmesan on top, and that’s a meal in itself. “When I was in Memphis we did open-fire cooking, and we grilled everything. The biggest surprise I took away from that was radishes. Coat them with a little olive oil and salt and pepper, and toss them right on the coals. You take them off the fire, rub off the skin, and they taste like little bits of pineapple. Really!”
The Great Spice Debate
Some food experts swear that because they make people sweat, spicy foods actually cool down your body. In the right environment — one with very low humidity and plenty of ventilation — the sweat beads that form on your skin evaporate quickly, leaving you cooler. The downside, of course, is that sweating isn’t particularly pleasant. Count Chef Ramirez as one of the non-believers. “I’m not into sitting around a table with a bunch of people who are sweating, and in any case I don’t cook heavily on the spice side.” His strategy: “Drink water! Lots and lots of ice water is the best way to make it through a restaurant shift or dinner prep at home.”
To read the complete Park City Home Summer e-edition, click here.